This month: reefing, making fast to a cleat, securing fenders

Seamanship

Sensible reefing
It always puzzles me to hear other cruisers who have full-batten mainsails say that, when sailing downwind, they have to round up into the wind to take in a reef. Why would you want to head up into a stiff breeze, I ask? It is faster, they reply.

Perhaps it is faster, if you’re racing with a full crew. On the other hand, if you’re the typical cruising couple, it certainly is not. When we’re running downwind we always leave it too late to reef and usually end up doing it in quite a lot of wind. Rounding up into 25 knots of wind will create all kinds of havoc; things start falling over belowdecks and, apart from anything else, the foredeck gets wet.

It is much easier to continue in the same direction. We go forward to release the main halyard by perhaps 3 feet. The mainsail will come down a little way but will stick on the spreaders. At this point we secure the halyard and winch in on the clew reefing pennant. This pulls the mainsail off the rigging, and now the sail will slide down the track easily. Then we ease off more halyard and winch in on the tack and clew pennants until the reef is in tight. It’s a good idea to mark your halyard so you know how much to let off. K.v.H.

Turning up
The only certainty about how to make fast to a cleat is that there are a number of equally good ways of doing it. In deciding which one to use, the questions to ask are: v If I secure it like this, will it be impossible for the rope to come off by mistake? v Will it also be impossible for the rope to jam up on the cleat? v Have I put the turns on in such a way that as I begin to take them off again, the rope can be surged under load if required? Three yes answers, and you’ve got it right. Notice that in the top photo, care is being taken that the second half of the initial turn on a poorly but typically aligned cleat cannot lock under load against the first half. The bottom photo shows a neat, safe job—half a turn, two figures of eight, and a final round turn. Don’t think that this is the only way, though, because it isn’t. T.C.

Secure fenders
It may be common practice to tie off fenders to the tops of stanchions, but it’s not a good idea. Think of the leverage exerted on the stanchion base should a fender become trapped under a dock or the rubrail of a neighboring boat. The movement of the stanchion base could easily fatigue the fiberglass underneath, causing the stress cracks seen on many older boats. Better to secure the fenders right down low, where the leverage on the stanchions is minimal. If your boat has an aluminum toerail, just lash the fenders to it or put carabiner hooks on the lines and clip them to the perforations in the rail. P.N.

Communication

Proactive VHF
There are two ways you can use your VHF to help avoid close encounters. If, for example, you are concerned that an approaching vessel may not have noticed your presence, you are entitled to call it directly if you can read its name, or to broadcast an “Urgency” message (Pan Pan) on channel 16 and ask its intentions.

In appropriate circumstances a more precautionary approach is also possible, such as a periodic message advising other vessels that your boat is sailing in poor visibility in a particular position with a certain course and speed. Strictly speaking, such messages should be broadcast on a dedicated working channel, after a preliminary Sécurité call on channel 16. In open water, however, where the message is intended for any vessel within radio range, it’s often more practical to make the whole announcement on channel 16. Even if the message is not understood, just hearing a voice on VHF may boost the alertness of other crews. The equivalent procedures on VHF units using DSC are more complex and therefore less reliable—and another reason why compulsory bridge monitoring of channel 16 should never be phased out, despite the International Maritime Organization’s persistence with the idea. A.B.

Visibility

Light relief
At sea, a masthead tri-color light on a boat under 65 feet overall is more likely to be noticed at longer range, but side and stern lights are less likely to be “underlooked” at closer distances. The two systems mustn’t be used simultaneously, but having both provides a backup against a bulb or wiring failure. Alternatively, a sailing vessel’s long- and short-range visibility can be enhanced by simultaneously showing side lights and a stern light, plus red over green all-round masthead lights. Use a search light to illuminate your sails or direct it briefly at another vessel to attract its attention. A.B.

Techniques: Look Aloft

When you’re grinding away on a winch, it’s natural to meet increased resistance with increased effort. This is not necessarily a good idea, especially if you can’t see what you’re doing. The resistance might be caused by a foul-up—a mainsail batten caught in a lazyjack, or a sheet trapped under a part-open hatch. It’s all too easy to cause damage by using muscle thoughtlessly. The halyards on most boats these days are led to winches on the cabintop—undoubtedly convenient, but they make it hard to see the consequences of your actions when you’re grinding. If your view aloft is obstructed by the dodger, lean back and sight up the mast before throwing all your weight behind that winch handle. At night, if the line you’re winching seems unnaturally tight, pause for a moment and check things out with a flashlight, or switch the spreader lights on. P.N.

This month’s contributors: Katharine van Hagen, Peter Nielsen, Aussie Bray, Tom Cunliffe

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